Natural Wonder (And Pancakes)

"It is not down on any map; true places never are."--Herman Melville

Now, don't get me wrong here: in preparation for Project Michigan, I have camped out in many a bookstore and raided many a welcome center to collect literature on the state. But in my traveling experience, I can honestly say that sometimes, in order to find the true diamonds in the rough, you have to put down the book and ask a local. 

That's what I did that Sunday morning in Houghton. Upon filling up the tank, I asked the girl at the counter, an Eastern European who looked about my age, to point me in the right direction for some breakfast. She directed me to Suomi, a Finnish restaurant about two blocks down that she advised had great pancakes. Never one to turn down a promising food recommendation, I made tracks to Suomi and was hardly disappointed. The menu was in both Finnish and English and man, she wasn't kidding about the pancakes. Funny thing was that upon returning home, I thumbed through all my UP literature and didn't find one mention of this place. I am so thankful I was able to stumble across it. :) 

Light, fluffy and freaking huge. / Samantha Franz

Our goal today? Hit up the Keewenaw Peninsula, drive to Copper Harbor, make our way down the UP with a stop in the Porcupine Mountains, all before driving as far east as we could go before the night skies chased us inside. Copper Harbor was a small, peaceful town right off Lake Superior and I quickly got to chatting with a shopkeeper who gently razzed me about being a Lions fan, since in the Yoop, it's all Packer country. 

I think one of my favorite parts of the trip came next, however. Another just-happened-to-drive-by gem, an unmarked and unoccupied beach, just begging for us to pull over and walk upon it. But there was something special about this beach. It wasn't made of sand. It was covered in agate. It was breathtaking. 

All photos by Samantha Franz

As I have also learned, the UP is in no shortage of waterfalls. Between Copper Harbor and the Porcupine Mountains, we came across two more: Jacobs and Eagle River Falls. It's so different from city life. It's not like I drive to work every morning and pass things like this by. Yoopers are so lucky to be surrounded by such beauty on a daily basis.

Jacobs Falls. / Samantha Franz

Eagle River Falls. / Samantha Franz

After arriving at the Porcupine Mountains, we stopped at the visitor center and were greeted by a chirppy ranger, appropriately named "Sunny," who whipped out a map and with pen in hand, asked us how many days we planned on staying. Sheepishly, I told her we really only had a few hours and I mentally kicked myself as I looked longingly at the map crowded with attractions. "Next time," I reassured myself. She made a huge circle on the map of the Lake of the Clouds, saying if we could only see one thing, that would be it. It's also, she noted, one of the most photographed lakes in the state. I can see why and I'll let my own photos speak for themselves:

All photos by Samantha Franz

Then came the hard part. It was just before 5 p.m. and we wanted to head as far east as possible before having to retire for the night. Our goal? Escanaba (Yes, bring on the "in the moonlight" jokes). Luckily, mom is good company and with a satellite radio to play with (Fact: at least six stations have Genesis in their hourly rotation), we made to Iron Mountain by just before eight. With the remainder of the sun fading away, we probably could have stopped for the night. But damnit, when Franz women set a goal, we hit it, so we continued forth to our destination. At 8:45, we arrived....only to find out the closest place for food closed in 15 minutes. Yikes! Now normally, if this had been the city, we probably would have been shooed away for arriving so close to 9 p.m. But bless the server, he said he wouldn't turn us away and we were seated. Score. :) And the food was awesome at Pacino's, so stop there if you're in the area. They'll be sure to let you in.

Random highlights of the day:

In Mohawk. I don't know what's weirder: The fact these classics were in 

an abandoned building or that they were all from Texas. / Samantha Franz

Record of the largest snowfall in the Yoop.  / Samantha Franz

This old Hamm beer can was by the snowfall marker. I kind of wanted to take it,

 but decided against it. Obviously, it had been sitting here for years for a 

reason, so I let it be. / Samantha Franz

Instructions on how to do a kill shot and where to report you success

 at the Porcupine Mountains. This is encouraged to keep the hogs 

at bay from humans.  / Samantha Franz

Fall color. :)  / Samantha Franz

That's all I got for now. In the last day of my UP adventure, I will be making my way back to under the bridge. See you then!

Motorcycles, Castles and Brownies

"Go out on a limb--that's where the fruit is."--Jimmy Carter

My Saturday morning began with a motorcycle brigade. As I drove through the UP on this trip, a common sight was for groups of motorcycles, usually in groups of three or four, rolling down the highways. I think that would be a total blast. With the UP's winding, scenic roads, it's the perfect backdrop for a cruise. Anyway, as we loaded up the car in the morning, I saw about 10 of said cruising motorcycles (all Hondas, I feel compelled to note) parked outside with their owners wiping the remains of last night's rain from their rides. They were all men wearing sweatshirts presumably from their alma maters (Minnesota, South Dakota), while their wives and girlfriends brought them coffee. They seemed like a nice group of people. I really hope they had a great ride. 


Our first order of business was breakfast and this time, we actually had a destination: The Falling Rock Cafe and Bookstore in downtown Munising. I think the story behind Falling Rock really encompasses the rallying spirit of those who are staying put in Michigan, a hallmark of what Project Michigan is all about. 


The cafe was founded in 2006 and instantly became the unofficial community meeting place. In addition to those coming in for coffee or book browsing, the cafe also played host to classes, meetings, community events and even radio programs. But as with many vacation destinations in the state, the people traffic sharply drops as the fall colors turn into winter barren. The Falling Rock was no exception and they faced the reality of having to close their doors, at the very least for the winter season. Not wanting to lose their community center, the Friends of the Falling Rock was formed and as a result, almost $14,000 was raised, allowing the Falling Rock to stay open year round. Today, one can become a Friend of the Falling Rock with a one-time $25 fee, giving you your own mug on the wall of the cafe and 50 cent coffee for life. When I was there, I noted there were over 300 mugs on the wall. There was also a collection dish on the counter, asking for donations to keep the wireless free. I saw the dish was pretty full, proving that the people of Munising and beyond are willing to support things that matter the most. 

Photos by Samantha Franz

When we were there, we were treated to deliciously blended coffee and a breakfast sandwich. There was plenty to look at and combing through the bookshelves was an entertaining treasure trove. Proving what a small world it is, I even met gentleman who, sparked by my Oakland University hoodie, revealed that he grew up in Royal Oak and dated a girl from Center Line High School. Haha.


We then made a trip to Miners Falls, Miners Beach and Miners Castle, all beautiful landmarks showcasing the Pictured Rocks and the ocean-like Lake Superior. For your enjoyment, a visual highlight reel:

All photos by Samantha Franz

We made a stop in Marquette, home to Northern Michigan University, for a bite to eat and on our way out, we saw this:

How can you say no to that?

I gotta tell ya: the ganache-based brownie was pretty darn good. The suckers were filling, too. We bought two and actually made them last over the next three days!

Ever notice how sometimes life is like the movies when just at the right moment, a song will come on that totally encapsulates the moment? I had one of those moments en route from Marquette to Houghton. Driving amongst the fall foliage, the 70s station began to play "The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald," a tribute to those who died in the 1975 shipwreck in none other than Lake Superior, along whose shores we were currently driving. Fitting, right?

Once we arrived in Houghton, another college town as the home of Michigan Tech, we checked in and decided to scope out part of the drive we would be making in the Keewenaw Peninsula the following day. We got as far as Calumet, a one-time ghost town that is being given new life thanks to a national takeover to restore the town to its former pre-mining drought days. While the streets were still fairly empty as it was later at night, it was nice to see the historic buildings full of businesses to help the slow and steady climb back to steady ground. 

When we returned to Houghton, we stopped for dinner at The Library, a brew pub with, as the name suggests, a library decor. Open to trying new things, I opted for an Oktoberfest Lager and was rewarded with a crisp and pleasant taste as I sipped. I also bought a pint glass from there, adding to my collection of wine glasses and beer glasses of the places I have visited. My parents collect shot glasses, my grandparents silver spoons. Me, I like my glasses. :)

Some additional randomness of the day:

???

"Oh crap, oh crap, oh crap..."

The bridge connecting Houghton to its sister city, Hancock. 

One thing about Project Michigan is that even though I pack a LOT into my short time in places, I have gotten without a doubt some of the best sleep on these trips and that night was no exception. The next day was to drive to Copper Harbor, the tip of the peninsula, and try to drive as close to home as we could, with the possible goal being Escanaba. See you then!

From Troll to Yooper

"Every exit is an entry somewhere else" -- Tom Stoppard

Samantha Franz

The quote from the famous scribe above seems particularly fitting for this trip because this time around, there was going to be no central location, as we would making countless entries and exits in order to take on my most ambitious endeavor yet: Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Not just a city or two, but the entire UP over the course five days, four nights. Crazy? Perhaps. But as anybody that knows me can attest to, when I travel, I want to soak up as much as I possibly can: try new foods, see new sights and, most importantly, talk to unique people. 


So, that's what brought me to Thursday. With the rental car packed, I set off shortly after I got off work. (Yeah, we opted to rent a ride this time around.The good ol' Tracker has been having some issues and my Sunfire isn't exactly equipped for a wilderness road trip). Our goal? To reach either Grayling or Gaylord by nightfall. That way, we'd only be about an hour out from the Mighty Mac, better known to us all as the Mackinac Bridge. 


The first hour of the drive basically involved me playing with the Dodge Avenger's satellite radio. I instantly found my favorites: 70s, 80s, 90s, Lithium, The Blend, The Pulse, Boneyard, Hair Nation, Classic Vinyl, Classic Rewind. (Yeah, some days I really feel like an old soul.) But as day quickly turned into night, we started to get tired and hungry which is never, ever a good combination. So, off to Grayling it was, home of military training center Camp Grayling. 


The rest of the night was rather uneventful, save for a St. Louis-style rib dinner at Teds' Canadian Style Steak and Fish. I was travel weary and full, so the rest of my night pretty much consisted of change clothes, contacts out, sleep. The following morning, we continued along I-75 only to be greeted by an elk. Yes, you read correctly.   One car in front of us, a towering elk popped his enormous head out from the woods and took his sweet time crossing the freeway. Yep, we were definitely in north country. 


Our new friend wasn't the only northern greeter we had. When we finally reached the bridge, we saw more than 700 vintage tractors getting ready to cross with us. Why cross? As their website suggests, just because it's something fun for a bunch of tractor enthusiasts to do. I love it. 

All photos by Samantha Franz

After crossing over, I was no longer a 'troll', as those of us that live under bridge are known as. I was now in 'Yooper' territory. The primary destination for today was the Tahquamenon Falls, a gorgeous waterfall that's so big, it has two places to view if from: the lower and the upper. They were gorgeous and it blows my mind how I am in the same state, yet there is so much wilderness and untapped beauty here above the bridge. 

The Lower Falls. 

Early signs of fall color.

The Upper Falls.

Here's a cool tidbit about the park: at the entrance of the Upper Falls, one can dine and enjoy a brew made right on site at the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub. Naturally, I couldn't let a place like that pass me by, so we sat down for a burger and a brew. Depending on the time of year, the Brew Pub offers any four varieties at a time. This is what was offered when I was there: 

My choice? Peach Wheat. Very, very tasty./Samantha Franz

Now, when I travel, I really prefer to take a county road over an interstate whenever possible. While bigger roadways get you to your destination quicker, you miss out on the sites, the smells and the 'holy crap, turn the car around!' moments. Throughout Project Michigan, I have had pretty good luck with county roads, so I felt pretty confident when we turned onto M-58 from M-37. 


Confidence turned into "Oh No' when the road became unpaved. 'Oh No' turned into words I probably shouldn't repeat when unpaved turned into mud that was made for ATVs, not cars. Oops. We made a gallant effort of it, but when the puddles became too massive, we had no choice but to turn around. 

Oops. 

We finally made it to Munising, the destination for our first night in the UP. We stayed at the adorable Sunset Motel on the Bay and met Shirley at the front desk, who whipped out a map and gave us the rundown of the town's hot spots with the authority of a real estate agent. I was impressed. 


One of the selling points of Munising is the fact that there is so much natural wonder within minutes of town. Just a few miles away is Sand Point and the Munising Falls, so we stopped at both for some photos. 

Munising Falls.

Sand Point

My first day in the UP really got me to thinking. I find it amazing beyond words how much natural beauty is here --The Pictured Rocks, the endless amounts of waterfalls, the dozens of beaches, the untouched wilderness. Being so close to our roots really allows for one to reflect and give pause to the current situation in Michigan. Yes, the state has taken a hit and the abandoned businesses dotted throughout demonstrate that. But if you peel back a layer, you'll see there is indeed true beauty here that you just can't put a price tag on. Michigan is more than cars, a recession and the D. It's a state with many sides and offers something for everyone: the four seasons, an urban playground, majestic beauty, boats by the thousands, hearty meals and Midwestern hospitality. It makes one realize that in these hard times, the state gives us the two greatest gifts of all: endless potential and hope. 

Random highlights from the day:


-- Sign upon leaving Trout Lake: "Good Luck From Us" (little ominous, no?)
-- This place: 

Too bad nobody was home. 

-- Oh and these guys:

How fun is that?

Next up, the action-packed day of adventures from Munising to Houghton. See you then!

Day Trip to Marshall

I think one of the reasons I enjoy school so much is because I am a curious person by nature. If I don't know what something is, I'll whip out an almanac or open up a Google search. I have always been excited to learn something new, even if its just where a city I have never heard of is on a map. That's how I stumbled across the city of Marshall, located about 17 miles east of Battle Creek. What makes Marshall unique is its plethora of historical landmarks that are sprinkled throughout the city, serving as a lovely backdrop against the quaint shops that lined the streets, creating a small town charm.

After parooszing the streets for a bit and checking out some of the shops, we stopped for a bite at RoMa Corner Cafe, a place proclaiming that they had 'THE Carrot Cake.' We took a slice of that cake home and I gotta tell you, it was pretty tasty and I'm not even a huge fan of carrot cake.

Some highlights from walking around:

Funky art displays.

One of several fountains in town. 

The American Museum of Magic.

The Historic Honolulu House. 

The Brooks Memorial Fountain. / All photos by Samantha Franz

In terms of people traffic, it was a relatively slow day in Marshall, as if the town carried the personality of a sleepy, midweek lull. But there were definitely some pretty cool things to be found. One was the East End Studio Gallery, where I found that a majority of the art being sold was made by middle schoolers! Turns out the gallery partners up with the Marshall Afterschool Arts Apprenticeship (AAA), a program for fifth to eighth graders held at the Marshall District Library where the students not only create art, but learn about the marketing, displays and sales end of the art world. All the proceeds earned goes right back into the AAA program. How cool is that? It's refreshing to see something like this in the midst of countless schools slashing arts programs to battle with budget cuts.

These glass pendants were made by students in the AAA program.

 Mine was made by 'Mike S.' and was tickled by the nostalgic 

name 'Old Times.' / Samantha Franz

Another thing we stumbled upon was a wine tasting station for Warner Vineyards, one of the oldest wineries in the state (founded in 1938). But unless you either came across it as we did or knew about it through word of mouth, you would probably never even know it was there. That's because the tasting room is actually housed in a florist called The Flower Haus and can be accessed through either a back door or by walking through the flower arrangement station past the cash register. A nice lady named Kathy was our host and we walked out with a few bottles and the promise to spread the word about this little gem. 

On the way back home, we stopped in Albion for a trip to Sleeping Bear Winery, where wine is approached with a light-hearted, non-threatening tone. ("Heck, we even have a bear holding a fish on our website, how uppity can that be?" their website proclaims.) But stumbling upon this place opened up a whole new can of worms as to how people of the state are making due in these hard times: agritourism. Owner John Burtka, who also owns the Cherry Creek Winery across the road, was an autoworker who, like so many across the state, lost his job. It was then he decided to follow three previous generations of wine makers and start a business of his own. His foray into the winery business, as well as the seemingly rapid growth of agritourism in Michigan, gave me some inspiration for a whole new avenue to take in my thesis research. 

Some photos from the Sleeping Bear and Cherry Creek Wineries:

All photos by Samantha Franz.

What began as a trip to historic Marshall ended up being a day of pleasant surprises. From a hidden gem tucked away in a florist to an enriching arts program to a man who turned sour grapes into wine, sometimes its the little things that make a trip worth all the while.